South America has two speeds: overwhelming or absolutely silent, and you’ll bounce between both constantly.

One minute you’re wedged between thousands of people at a market in Lima, and the next, you’re staring at Patagonia’s glaciers wondering how you got there. It’s a continent where everything feels just slightly bigger than it should be—mountains, waterfalls, cities, meals.

There’s no halfway when you travel here. It’s all or nothing.